The market is flooded with shampoo brands, celebrity endorsements and big claims about controlling hair fall or promoting hair growth. So which shampoo should you actually use?
In this article based on his educational video, Dr. John Watts — dermatologist, trichologist and one of the best hair transplant surgeons in Hyderabad — explains the difference between mild and harsh shampoos, and why mild wins.
How to identify a mild shampoo
Shampoos that do not cause irritation or damage to the scalp are classified as mild — their ingredients leave a minimal adverse effect. The way to tell them apart is the label.
"In particular, people buying shampoos should read the label carefully and watch out for ingredients containing sodium Laureth sulphate, sodium laurel sulphate, or sodium lauryl sulphate and paraben. They should avoid such shampoos with a harsh surfactant," Dr. Watts informs.
Besides these chemical ingredients, harsh shampoos may also carry strong smells and strong colouring agents.
What shampoo is actually for
A mild shampoo uses hair-friendly ingredients that cleanse while causing the least irritation and damage to the scalp in the long run.
"The purpose of a shampoo is cleansing and the mild shampoo does a good job on this. People should not believe if any shampoo claims that it can control hair fall or promote hair growth," advises Dr. John Watts.
How harsh shampoos damage your scalp
A harsh shampoo can drain away excess oil from the scalp and lead to itching. Gradually, the itching and scratching can cause skin erosion, breaking the protective skin barrier on the scalp. This opens the door to bacterial attacks — by the likes of staphylococcus bacteria — which damage the hair and lead to hair fall.
Even mild shampoos have limits
Dr. Watts points to herbal-based volumizing shampoos that use Acacia concinna — soapnut, reetha, shikakai or kunkudukai — as examples of mild shampoos. But he adds a word of caution:
"You cannot use mild shampoos in excess either. The volumizing shampoos add volume to the hair and are safer comparatively but overuse can drain excess oil and damage hair cuticle," he warns, recommending a head wash with mild shampoo not more than thrice a week.
And if you still have a stock of harsh shampoo you cannot bring yourself to throw away? Use a very small quantity diluted with water. "It is better if one immediately washes away such shampoo on the scalp within 20-25 seconds of application on the scalp," he suggests.
The bottom line
A shampoo's job is cleansing — nothing more. Pick a mild, sulphate-free, paraben-free formula, wash no more than three times a week, and ignore any claim that a shampoo can stop hair fall or grow hair. If you are losing hair, the answer is a diagnosis, not a different bottle.
This article is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Consult a qualified dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.
Frequently asked questions
Which shampoo ingredients should I avoid?
Watch out for sodium laureth sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate and parabens. Shampoos with these harsh surfactants, strong smells or strong colouring agents should be avoided.
Can shampoo control hair fall or grow hair?
No. Dr. John Watts says the purpose of a shampoo is cleansing only — do not believe claims that any shampoo can control hair fall or promote hair growth.
How often should I wash my hair with mild shampoo?
Not more than thrice a week. Even mild and volumizing shampoos can drain excess oil and damage the hair cuticle if overused.
What if I still have harsh shampoo at home?
Use a very small quantity diluted with water, and rinse it off the scalp within 20-25 seconds of application.
