There are dozens of beard care products in the market making tall claims about regrowing beard hair where none exists. Marketers rope in tall, fair-complexioned, handsome models and attribute their thick beards to the products. But will these products help if you have a family history of poor beard growth — or no beard at all due to hormonal issues?
In this article based on his educational video, Dr. John Watts — dermatologist, trichologist and hair transplant surgeon in Hyderabad, with over 1,900 hair transplant procedures performed — demystifies these products with scientific clarity.
What is inside a beard growth kit?
To show how companies like Bombay Shaving Company, Ustraa and Mooch build hype, Dr. Watts unboxed the Bombay Shaving Company beard care starter kit on camera. It contains: a booklet claiming a four-step guide for beard growth, a bottle of stubble oil, a beard growth oil, a beard serum, beard shampoo and conditioner, a box of moustache wax and a box of beard butter.
His verdict: "They are mostly beard care products that help in keeping the existing beard hair healthy. There do not seem to be any clinical studies showing how they helped a beardless man grow a beard."
What the labels claim vs what science shows
The Beard Growth Oil, for instance, says it strengthens the beard, stimulates blood circulation and prevents premature greying. Dr. Watts notes it lists some herbal extracts, but there is no information about effectiveness or clinical studies on solving beard growth problems.
"Yes, you can gain some beard density when blood circulation is improved but no company's products can help you grow a new beard if you have hormonal deficiency like Testosterone which controls the growth of beard hair follicles," explained Dr. John.
Why beard growth is really about hormones
"At the age of 14-15, puberty triggers hormonal changes. Here's when one notices the growth of a beard. However, there are many factors involved in beard hair growth. There have to be follicles and both receptors & hormones must function — if one of them is not active or not functioning properly, growth would be affected. Such products may be of little use in such conditions," he informed.
No product can grow a new beard in a spot with no beard hair at all, in someone with a family history of beardlessness, or in someone with a testosterone-related hormonal issue. These medical issues need to be resolved with the help of a medical expert.
The real options for a patchy or absent beard
"If your hormonal issue is responsible for poor beard hair growth there are treatments. But, if medication is not working, the only solution is a beard hair transplant," informed Dr. John.
The bottom line
Beard oils and balms are grooming products — good for maintaining the beard you already have, not for creating one you don't. Dr. Watts' advice: never jump to conclusions about any product without examining each claim scientifically. If your beard is genuinely patchy or absent, get the hormonal angle checked first; a beard transplant is the proven fix when medication fails.
This article is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Consult a qualified dermatologist for diagnosis and treatment.
Frequently asked questions
Can beard oils grow a beard where there is no hair?
No. Dr. John Watts explains these are mostly care products for existing beard hair, with no clinical studies showing they can grow a beard for a beardless man.
Why does my beard not grow properly?
Beard growth depends on follicles, receptors and hormones — especially testosterone. If any of these is not functioning properly, growth is affected, and products will be of little use.
Do beard growth oils have any benefit at all?
Some beard density may improve when blood circulation improves, and the products can keep existing beard hair healthy — but they cannot create new beard hair.
What is the solution for a patchy or absent beard?
Hormonal issues can be treated medically, and if medication does not work, a beard hair transplant is the only solution.
